Tag Archives: Serengeti

Serengeti: First Sighting of Wild Dogs in 20 Years

Guest Post by Uwe Skrzypczak (photographer)

Stretching by the Lakeshore

When we had followed in vain the gnu herds on Friday for over 6 hours and were about to have lunch. Our Driverguide suddenly rushed into the restaurant at Ndutu Lodge and said that a half hour ago, about 7 wild dogs had been sighted only 3 kilometers away on the way to the Lake Masek.

U-turn

Wild dogs have been regarded as extinct in the Serengeti for over 20 years, therefore we didn’t really take the information seriously at first. I said to him, ‘certainly tourists may have mixed up the Bat-eared Fox with the Wild Dog’. Nevertheless we left immediately and after 5 minutes we had found the animals infront of the camera. Probably a photographer gets such a stroke of luck only once in his life. This was one of those famous ‘once in a lifetime moment’.

The 7 wild dogs moved first at the edge of the forest. There I shot the first photos freehand from the slow-driving car with a Canon 5.6 800 mm at 1Ds III. Afterwards at the lakeshore, and from the vehicle roof with a cushion with the same optics at a E0S 7 D, which is about 1300 mm  (picture angled, almost like a spotting scope, and animals, holding the viewfinder with extreme concentration). The last photo of the running wild dogs was taken after sunset. The light conditions were modest to critical the whole time, but I think nevertheless, some use came out it.

Afterwards I drove back quite ‘high’ on luck and also completely dehydrated, because we had forgotten the beverages, and with 30 gigabyte of photo data. back to the Ndutu Lodge into the southern Serengeti.

Eventually, I successfully revived myself with a cold Tusker beer. Here are some of the photos I took:

Dong make me bite you

uwe-wild-dog5

Identify yourself

uwe-wild-dog3

U-turnI run with my dogs

Make a run for it!

Saving the Mau – Kenyas heart is bleeding

A recent report by BBC reporter James Morgan on the impact of the destruction of Kenya’s Mau Forest has been making waves in Kenya. This well researched article highlights the causes of the forest destruction (bad policies), and it’s impacts (rivers, farming, climate and conflict). The current Kenya Government is trying to undo the damage caused by the previous regime and rich cronies  – ironically these people starting with the former president who have destroyed a national asset and caused untold suffering in the short and long term, will actually be compensated in cash. This policy of rewarding wrong doers has angered Kenyans intensely and the situation on the ground is very volatile.

High in the hills of Kenya’s Mau forest, some 20,000 families are facing eviction from their farms – accused of contributing to an ecological disaster which has crippled the country.

Mau Forest Kenya

The authorities are to start the process of removing them any day now. Farmers will be asked to surrender their title deeds for inspection.

If their documents are genuine, they have a chance of being resettled, or compensated.

If not, they will simply be told to go.

Mau forest is Kenya’s largest water tower – it stores rain during the wet seasons and pumps it out during the dry months.

But during the last 15 years, more than 100,000 hectares – one quarter of the protected forest reserve – have been settled and cleared.

Tearing out the trees at the heart of Kenya has triggered a cascade of drought and despair in the surrounding valleys.

The rivers that flow from the forest are drying up.

And as they disappear, so too have Kenya’s harvests, its cattle farms, its hydro-electricity, its tea industry, its lakes and even its famous wildlife parks.

The finger of blame is being pointed at the settlers in Mau. And the solution, according to a special task force appointed by Prime Minister Raila Odinga, is to uproot the invaders and replant the trees.

Of 20,000 families living in the forest, they estimate that perhaps as few as 1,962 have genuine title deeds.

Civil conflict

“We must act now – before the entire ecosystem is irreversibly damaged,” said Mr Odinga.

“We are looking at securing the livelihoods and economies of millions of Africans who directly and indirectly depend on the ecosystem.”

The prime minister was speaking at the United Nations – appealing for donations of 7.6bn shillings ($100m; £63.5m) to “rehabilitate” Kenya’s water supply.

If he does not act, he foresees a struggle for water and land which could escalate into a bloody civil conflict.

Because in the valleys downstream of Mau forest, farmers like Peter Ole Nkolia are running out of water, cattle, and patience.

“Those people up there need to just move,” says Mr Nkolia, as he stands by the carcass of a dead cow.

“If the destruction of Mau shall continue I can assure you that a lot of people will suffer.

“What you are going to see here in Narok is just the skeletons of cattle – and maybe people.”

 

Mau forest kenya

Worse still, the water from Mau quenches thirst far beyond Kenya. Its rivers feed Tanzania’s Serengeti and keep the fishermen of Lake Victoria afloat.

When you consider that Lake Victoria is the source of the Nile, you begin to grasp the scale of the crisis the Kenyan government is facing.

“This is no longer a Kenyan problem,” said Mr Odinga. “Tanzania and Egypt are feeling the heat from the Mau.

“And the implications go beyond the environment. This has the potential to create insecurity as people squabble over dwindling resources.”

‘Buffer zone’

Chopping down the tree cover in Mau has removed a natural “pump” which keeps the ecosystem alive.

“It rains a lot in Kenya – but only in the rainy seasons. Then you have four long months with not a drop,” explains Christian Lambrechts, from the Nairobi-based UN Environment Programme (UNEP).

“So you need a buffer zone – a way to ration the rain water and release it slowly into the rivers in the dry season. That buffer is the forest.

“If you remove this ecosystem, you reduce the moisture reservoir. Which means that in the dry season… ‘Hakuna maji’. No water.”

When the rains in Kenya stop falling, the 12 rivers which stem from the Mau forest are the lifeline for about 10 million people.

And this year in Kenya, the rains failed badly.

Narok county – the breadbasket of Kenya – was a barren dustbowl in April, the wettest month of the year. The government declared a “national emergency” with 10 million Kenyans facing starvation.

Cattle keeled over and died, in their millions. And as the drought worsened, Kenyan government was forced to bail out farmers by slaughtering their weak animals for just 8,000 shillings ($105; £65) a head.

In western Kenya, the tea plantations of James Finlay, which feed on the rivers of western Mau, have seen their yields cut to 80%. And the town of Kericho experienced water rationing for the first time in a generation.

Trouble in paradise

Wildlife tourism – another pillar of Kenya’s economy – is wilting in the heat.

Lake Nakuru, the birdwatcher’s paradise, is disappearing. The rivers that feed it have run dry. They come from Mau.

Mau forest lake Nakuru

And in the Masai Mara, the river which hosts the world famous “crossing of the wildebeest” has fallen to its lowest ever level.

Water scarcity has brought wild animals and farmers into conflict. Deaths, injuries and compensation claims are at record highs in Narok, according to the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS).

The fuse for all these disasters was lit in Mau.

“The Mau, in a sense, is the hen that lays the golden eggs,” says Paul Udoto, of KWS.

“The eggs are Lake Nakuru, the Masai Mara, the tea plantations… the farming that is being done by pastoralists.

“Once you destroy the centre – the hen – that is the Mau – then by necessity you have to lose the golden eggs.”

Frequent droughts

But can deforestation really be to blame for all these catastrophes?

After all, there have always been cyclical droughts in Kenya.

The trouble is that these droughts are becoming more frequent, more severe and less predictable. Particularly since 2001 – the year when 60,000 hectares of Mau were allocated to settlers and cleared.

“At a time when the climate in Kenya is becoming drier, that is when you need to boost your ecosystem – to help it to absorb the impact of climate variability,” says Mr Lambrechts.

“Go in the opposite direction, and you are going to feel those impacts much bigger. That is what we are currently feeling.”

Mr Lambrechts is one of 30 officials recruited to the task force by Prime Minister Odinga.

Their report, published in July, set out in painstaking detail how more than 100,000 hectares – one quarter of the entire forest reserve – was parcelled up and cleared for settlement.

Almost 20,000 land parcels were “excised” by the governments of Daniel arap Moi and Mwai Kibaki, and handed out to farmers – which helped to boost the two presidents’ popularity in the run-up to elections.

At the time, much of these excised land parcels were promised to Ogiek peoples, the original forest dwellers. But the title deeds ended up largely in the hands of local officials and incoming settlers.

 Mau forest kenya

Map showing three types of settlement within the Mau forest reserve: (i) Land excised and allocated to settlers by government (ii) Trust land which was adjudicated to indigenous forest peoples (iii) Land which was encroached or illegally purchased

Meanwhile, in the southern Maasai Mau forest, almost 2,000 plots were illegally purchased within the protected forest reserve, with the help of local officials.

Plots known as “group ranches” were expanded, subdivided and then sold on to third parties, unaware that their new title deeds may be “irregular” or “bogus”.

Finally, large chunks of the forest were simply occupied and squatted – “encroached” to use the official terminology – by settlers with no title claim whatsoever.

Political tightrope

The task force insists that almost all of these settlers and land owners should leave the forest as soon as possible.

But how many deserve compensation? This is a political tightrope for Prime Minister Odinga.

The task force has promised that each family will have their claim heard on a “case-to-case basis”.

All holders of “genuine” title deeds will be compensated – perhaps even those high-ranking public officials who are named by the task force as having received land via irregular means.

A search for new land to resettle farmers is underway, but is already provoking controversy.

“I hope when they go to the World Bank they won’t get any money,” says Professor Wangari Maathai, the Nobel Laureate and environmental campaigner.

“The only reason why we are being held hostage with the Mau is because people who were in power want to be compensated.”

Double-whammy

But perhaps the biggest challenge of all facing Kenya is the ecological one – the co-ordinated replanting of 100,000 hectares of indigenous forest.

It will take decades to restore the canopy – years in which Kenyans will continue to suffer from the double-whammy of local land degradation and global climate change.

Yet among environmentalists there is some relief that, at last, Kenya has woken up to a disaster that has been brewing for decades.

Countless warnings have gone unheeded, as Ms Maathai can testify.

“I keep telling people, let us not cut trees irresponsibly… especially the forested mountains,” she says.

“Because if you destroy the forests, the rivers will stop flowing and the rains will become irregular and the crops will fail and you will die of hunger and starvation.

Mau Forest Kenya

“Now the problem is, people don’t make those linkages.”

In Kenya this year, everyone is making those linkages.

Guess Who Else ‘Migrated’ into The Masai Mara This Weekend

In a rather unusual event, Kenya’s top guy ‘migrated’ with a large portion of his clan into the Masai Mara this Sunday to see the the popular Wildebeest Migration from the Serengeti to the Mara. Kenya’s President Mwai Kibaki – amusingly described by Tourism Minister, Najib Balala, as Tourist Number 1 – seemed to have had a ball down there. I hear that the migration is particularly thick this season and the accompanying wildlife is superb. Well you just need to look at Paula’s post to see the magnificent images she brought back just a few days before the country’s CEO pointed his family towards the Mara River.

In President Kibaki’s words “It is a wonderful world, wonderful indeed and of course it is wonderful for me to be here,”

PresidentKibakiMara
President Kibaki is in blue floral shirt.

It was big news here in Kenya and most of us suspended (voluntarily) our evening activities either at 7pm (for the news in Kiswahili) or at 9pm (for the English version) to watch the not-so-often-in-the-news president and his grand children relaxed and watching game. And the man seems to be having lots of fun. Picture this: it is common knowledge that the President hardly ever gives a one-on-one interview with the press. He avoids the press like the plague. But the sight of tons of gnu spread out into the horizon must have softened his heart and he gave an uncharacteristically jovial interview with Linus Kaikai of Kenya’s premier private TV station, KTN. The migration can have this effect on people.

Its a good thing for Kenya’s tourism when the top mwananchi*is publicly seen visiting the Mara. It definitely will encourage us, middle-class Kenyans, to visit our country (we’re conspicuously absent in tourist spots – except as tour guides and hotel staff). His appeal to the international community to come visit the Country, and the Mara, is also welcome given that the tourism industry is yet to recover from the traumatic post-election violence that shocked the whole world early this year. According to reports however it seems that the recovery has been much faster than expected although we are not there yet.

The Mara remains the top wildlife tourism destination in East Africa and such high profile endorsement might be of help to such places as the Mara Triangle that have been struggling to get back on their feet after the crippling effects of the violence.

Read more about the Presidents visit to the Masai Mara here and here

*mwananchi is citizen in Kiswahili