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A place called Ishango

Category: Uncategorized | Date: Nov 29 2007 | By: admin

Dipesh in the Congo: Nothing quite prepares you for the drive from Mutsora to Ishango in the northern sector of Virunga National Park, DR Congo. Within two hours we traveled from the dense and humid tropical Congo forest to the stunning savannah landscape of Ishango which is located on the shores of Lake Edouard where the Semliki River flows out.

The grass is so green from the short rainy season and the Congo Cobs, a beautiful antelope is certainly not short of good food. As we approached, I saw the mass fresh water lake appear and the reconstructed Ranger’s post which overlooks the magnificent Semliki River. It’s huge!

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Pods of hippos laze around comfortably cooling themselves and the occasional grunt echoes across the Savannah. The place is alive with hundreds of different bird species. I now know why Samantha says this is her favourite spot in DR Congo.

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We were greeted by Atamato who I felt that I knew so well from his blog. He on the other hand, was surprised that I even knew his name. Once again, the hospitality of the Rangers was as welcoming as the twittering of the birds.

When Atamato suggested we take a ride down the river, I was up in a flash. Samantha had told me stories of elephants wading in the water and now I had a once in a lifetime opportunity to see this for myself.

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Of course luck always plays a part in coming across wildlife and today, I could not have been luckier. Not far down the river amongst a lazy pod of hippos was a solitary elephant bathing itself. Elephants are no novelty for me as I am spoilt for wildlife coming from Kenya but this had to be one of the most spectacular sites I had come across. We slowly drifted towards the elephant and he sensibly increased his distance as the hippos curiously observed the scene.

And a ride down the river is not complete without being mock charged by Karibu the hippo, a mother of two, who like any sensible mother will do anything to protect her children. Atamato and the others know each pod of hippos like one would know their neighbours and have appropriately named them after famous Congolese singers. If only Papa Wemba knew that a pod of hippos were named after him! What an honour!

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Like most places, a short visit is always a thrill and one soaks in the best but being posted here is no holiday. There is no public transport and the closest human settlement where you can buy basic food rations is over an hour’s walk away. The rangers take turns going on 5 day patrols on the lookout for poachers laying snares and other illegal activities. I can imagine it gets quite lonely out here to say the least.

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A big thanks to all in Congo for opening my eyes to so much.

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4 Responses to “A place called Ishango”

Dave Brown, on 29 Nov 2007

This is great, we need more photos so we can see more of the action!

Elodie, on 29 Nov 2007

Articles and photos just make you wish peace returns soon - for the sake of this georgous ecosytem, for Congolese people’s lives. Thanks ..

Lisa, California, on 29 Nov 2007

Dipesh, What a great post. Thanks for sharing your visit to Ishango with us and for sharing the pictures. I hope that someday I can visit Atamato and Ishango. It seems like a specatular place. I’m so glad Atamato and his rangers are there to keep it and all its wildlife safe. Lisa

Atamato » Blog Archive » Video: Elephants love to soak in the Semliki River, on 17 Dec 2007

[…] post. It was actually when Dipesh from WildlifeDirect was visiting and he wrote about this on the Baraza blog. As you can see because of past poaching elephants are still wary of humans, but I love it […]

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